My products are generally very easy to install / wire-up etc. Over the past year these are the most common mistakes people make when installing my products, please review these items to help correct any issue you currently may be experiencing before calling. I am more than willing to help diagnose issues if you have investigated these steps first as its difficult to build new products and get things done in a timely manner if I spend all of my time answering the same questions via email and phone calls
Even though it will program. This is a very easy one that happens quite often. You either have selected the incorrect tach signal wire or number of cylinders set wrong (yellow with blue tracer is the tach wire, BUT there is also a yellow with blue tracer that goes right to the large yellow connector over the left ram air tube.) THIS IS NOT THE CORRECT WIRE, this is +12 volts with HIGH BEAM ON
SUZUKI’S should be set to 2 cylinder mode if using the yellow with blue tracer tach signal. If you are using a coil or injector ground for an RPM signal on a shift light, you need to set # of cylinders to coil on plug.
The following Illustrations show the INCORRECT and CORRECT yellow with blue tracer wire. This will not let anything RPM related work. In the photo to the right you see have a wire with some red extension wire in there, thats the proper tach signal, inside this taped up / glued harness at the left ram air tube and frame intersection.
Another popular issue, can be a few different things. Coil signals are hooked up properly, should be at the ground side of each coil (If you have an ignition module from Dynojet) make sure the connections to the 2 step are right at the coil as the 2 step wont work if the signals have to go through the ignition module and then to the coils. If you get a small amount of kill at wide open throttle but it goes past the setpoint all the way to redline you have 1 or more faulty connections. Use a voltmeter and check continuity with all coil stick connectors unplugged and go from the ground side of the coil connector all the way back to the green wire connections at the 2 step box. You aren’t giving the bike enough throttle. Due to differences in ignition maps etc, if you give the bike a small amount of throttle (especially at low RPMs below 5000 RPM) you can walk right past the 2 step rev limiter. Test the bike the same way you would race it at the track, with throttle wide open. If shift light seems to work at proper RPM verifying you have the correct tach signal, but still no ignition kill, make sure the clutch signal you have selected is correct and the toggle switch is turned on. If you put the 2 step box up to your ear and pull the clutch in with key on and toggle switch on you should hear a very faint click inside the 2 step box (a small relay is activated when you pull the clutch in) arming the launch limiter. If you don’t hear this you don’t have the correct clutch signal wire or the toggle switch is off. If you have other electronics connected to the clutch signal it can make it hang up, meaning you pull the clutch in and the bike 2 steps fine, but then you release the clutch and it keeps on 2 stepping. The AMS1000 for sure will do this and needs a 1N4007 diode placed on the clutch wire going back to the AMS1000, other devices may have the same issue as well.
This is another easy mistake. The launch / shift lights that I sell only flash the LAUNCH light on power up. If you turn your key on and see a light flash, you have the INCORRECT clutch signal wire selected. You should ONLY see the launch light flash on power up if hold the clutch lever in. The black with yellow tracer wire inside the same harness as the tach signal is correct, just make sure its the one that is only a ground with clutch pulled in, this wire leads up to the large yellow connector a few inches away. If you look at the side of the connector towards the front of the bike you see (2) of these wires, one is ground all the time, the other is switched ground with clutch pulled in. On the back side of the connector there is only 1 black with yellow tracer, this is the CORRECT wire. With your key on, you should hear my relay CLICK when you pull the clutch in, then here it UN-CLICK when you release the clutch. If you have other electronics connected to the clutch signal it can make it hang up, meaning you pull the clutch in and the bike seems to use the launch light fine fine, but then you release the clutch and the launch light is still active. The AMS1000 for sure will do this and needs a 1N4007 diode placed on the clutch wire going back to the AMS1000, other devices may have the same issue as well.