FAQ’s and Common Mistakes

Common Installation Mistakes

My products are generally easy to install and wire. However, over the past year, these are the most common mistakes customers have made. Please review these notes carefully before reaching out for support. I’m always happy to help troubleshoot, but reviewing the information below first ensures I can spend more time developing new products and providing timely assistance.

1. Shift Light / 2-Step / Window Switch Doesn’t Work

This is a very common issue. The product may still program correctly, but the wrong tach signal wire or cylinder setting is often the cause.

Incorrect Tach Wire: The correct tach signal is the yellow wire with a blue tracer. Be aware—there is a second yellow/blue wire near the large yellow connector over the left ram air tube. That wire is +12V with high beam on and is NOT the correct tach signal.
Suzuki Settings: Set the system to “2 cylinder mode” if using the yellow/blue tracer wire. If you’re using coil or injector ground for RPM signal, set the cylinder mode to “coil on plug.”
Tip: Refer to product illustrations to see correct vs. incorrect tach wire locations.

2. Two-Step Rev Limiter Doesn’t Kill Ignition

This can result from several common wiring issues:

Signal Location: Connect coil signals at the ground side of each coil. If you use a Dynojet ignition module, wire the 2-step connections directly at the coils. Going through the module may block the signal.
Partial Kill: If the bike only slightly cuts power or revs past your set point, check all ground connections. Use a voltmeter to confirm continuity between coil connector ground pins and the 2-step’s green wire.
Throttle Input: If you’re testing at low RPM or low throttle, you might bypass the limiter. Test the same way you would race—with wide open throttle.
Clutch Signal: Make sure the clutch signal wire is correct and the toggle switch is ON. With the key on and clutch pulled, you should hear a faint relay click inside the 2-step box.
Signal Interference: Devices like the AMS1000 may interfere. A 1N4007 diode on the clutch wire going to the AMS1000 will prevent it from hanging the clutch signal. Other electronics may require the same treatment.

3. Launch Light Doesn’t Program or Work Properly

This often comes down to incorrect clutch signal wiring.

Startup Flash: If the launch light flashes when turning the key ON without pulling the clutch, the wrong clutch wire is selected.
Correct Wire: Use the black wire with yellow tracer that only shows ground when the clutch is pulled. It’s in the same harness as the tach signal wire and leads to the large yellow connector near the frame and ram air tube.
Identifying It: On the front side of the connector, there are two black/yellow wires—one is ground always, the other is ground only with clutch in. On the rear side of the connector, only the correct wire remains.
Relay Click: With the key on, you should hear a click when pulling the clutch in and another when releasing it.
Other Electronics: Like before, the AMS1000 or similar devices can hang the signal. Use a 1N4007 diode to isolate the clutch signal going to those devices.